Kicking off her Diamonds world tour in Buffalo New York on Friday night Rihanna wowed fans with a series of outfits designed by Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci. Labelled “urban haute couture elegance” by the designer the collection of costumes includes a floor-length black cape with ruffles and gold embroidery, thigh-high boots in black and white leather, a parka featuring a gold bullet motif, “couture goggles” and a plethora of leather bra and mini-shorts ensembles.“Rihanna represents what young and amazing means today,” Tisci said. “She is punk and talented. She offers intelligence, energy and pure beauty. She is the face of her generation.” What better way to catapult a world tour into the spotlight than wearing custom-made couture?
Looking at Oscar de la Renta’s fall 2013 runway you could guess that John Galliano was in the house. Oscar still ruled though with his use of colour, the amazing detail and overall femininity. Some pieces in the collection did seem more like vintage ODLR. The 80-year-old will mark his 50th year of designing clothes in New York in 2013. Nothing last season came close to the wow factor of the two grand silk faille ball gowns in shocking pink and mulberry with intricate gold bullion embroidery that closed the show.
Olivier Theyskens’s Fall 2013 RTW collection for Theyskens’ Theory was all about volume. The designer worked a lot of space into a series of short trapeze and cocoon dresses with a mostly black, grey and white palette. The first look, a sharply tailored blazer and leather shorts combination set the silhouette for the show. It was power suiting for the modern woman.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s soulful and affecting Rodarte show was inspired by dreams of their California childhood. As Kate explained backstage, “We wanted to capture our memories of Santa Cruz: It’s a very personal collection.” It was grunge and it was gothic, Nineties and theatrical, skate culture, LA surfers, fairytale princesses and Eighties street kids.