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Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s soulful and affecting Rodarte show was inspired by dreams of their California childhood. As Kate explained backstage, “We wanted to capture our memories of Santa Cruz: It’s a very personal collection.” It was grunge and it was gothic, Nineties and theatrical, skate culture, LA surfers, fairytale princesses and Eighties street kids.

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At Pucci, smoky eyes caught the light with bronze finishing powders applied to the center of the lid. Matte black shadow was used at the corners of the eyes to bring out the metallic shimmer.

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Peter Philips carefully applied gold leaf to models’ eyelids at Fendi, keeping the rest of the face bare.

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Rodarte kept smoky eyes cool for hot summer nights, with a mix of icy blue shades topped with mother of pearl right across the lid.

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At Chanel, Peter Philips brought the white light of midsummer nights to the girls’ faces, with satiny lids finished with a pale metallic shimmer and white gold nails.

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Givenchy gave its girls the Midas touch for the runway, with a sequin cut in half and applied to the center of the eyelid, above and below the eye. The two halves only came together when the girls’ eyes were shut.

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Eyes were swept with a wave of silver at 3.1 Philip Lim, highlighting the crease of the lid and widening eyes in a trick of light and colour.

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