Go behind the scenes with French Vogue at Haute Couture spring/summer 2013 Fashion Week in Paris. This episode features Versace, Dior, Giambattista Valli and Iris Van Herpen’s amazing 3D fabric designs.
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Frida Giannini’s Gucci Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear collection was designed for the 21st century jetset crowd. It had a late-sixties/early-seventies vibe and a feel-good mood. “I love to play with color for Spring,” Giannini said backstage, and play she did. In addition to that bright pink, there was cobalt, citrus yellow, coral, and turquoise, each one as vibrant as the next and worn head-to-quite-literally-toe with sunglasses, bags, and shoes matched to outfits. It wasn’t subtle, but subtlety, at least in terms of palette, wasn’t the designer’s game this season. Plastic necklaces and earrings were designed to look, as she put it, “like fake Liz Taylor.” Colour was only part of the message, silhouette was a big story. Tunic and trouser combinations have been getting major play lately, and Giannini is positioning herself as a serious proponent for Spring. She believes in ruffles—tracing the single sleeve of a column dress, arcing around the shoulders and down the back of another, adding major drama to an otherwise quite minimal V-neck gown. Cutouts also played a starring role, upping the provocation factor and giving these polished clothes a modern update. Giannini looked east for the collection’s prints but not in any obvious way. A karung motif was stamped on a crisp Japanese paper fabric and the floral was inspired by Japanese wallpaper. For evening, the designer opted to show only black and white, my favourite was a stunning long white dress with coral jewels embroidering the neckline.